A day in MARSEILLES

Marseilles is busy, crowded, dirty and rough around the edges. But Marseilles is also one of the most progressive and forward-thinking cities in the country. People tend to either love it or hate it. Maybe it’s not the ideal location to spend your entire holiday, but this historic, lively, colourful city deserves at least a day of exploration.

Marseilles was France’s first city. Beginning its life as a Greek port, it has continued to be an important trading place, which has resulted in a bubbling melting-pot of a city. People from Africa, Italy, Spain, the Middle east, Indo-china and many other places have ended up settling here. This is one of the things which makes Marseilles such an interesting, diverse and thrilling city. It has remained an important city in France since it was first settled - it is second largest city in the country, after Paris.

As a city which relies heavily on trade for it’s livelihood, the ports are a important part of the city. Today, the new port has taken over as the major commercial centre of the town. 100 million tonnes of freight pass through this port annually, making it the third largest port in Europe. However the old port still has an important place for the fishing industry. The old port (“Vieux-port”) puts on quite a show when the fisherman gather to auction of their catch. It is definitely a highlight and throws you back a couple of centuries.

Marseilles hosts many cultural events and festivals. In fact, it was recently designated as the European Capital of Culture for 2013, so there has never been a better time to see Marseille. Over the next few years, as it gears up for the responsiblity of culturally representing Europe, Marseille's artistic and cultural scene will only become stronger and more vibrant. Truly a city of contrasts: well-known not only for it's Opera houses, theatres and art galleries but also as a centre for French hip-hop and rap. Marseille was recently dubbed by a blogger as the 'San Francisco' of Europe - a thriving port city with a large immigrant community and a keen artistic edge.
One of the highlights of the city is the Noailles market. The streets in this area are lined with Arabic and Indo-chinese shops - you feel as if you have stepped into a hybrid arabic-asian bazaar. You can find this area near the Noailles subway stop.

For natural beauty, visit the Calanques. This is a stunning area featuring fjords and limestone cliffs to the south of Marseille. Also, 'La Corniche' makes for a great afternoon stroll with it’s spectacular views of the sea and the Chateau d’If (the prison where ‘The Count of Monte Cristo’ was set.) However, if you are looking for beaches, Marseilles is far from the jackpot. They can often be polluted and dirty. Concentrate on the other things which the city has to offer, and go elsewhere for swimming and sunbathing!

The public transport system can be a little chaotic -- the locals are vocal in their disapproval of the irregular buses - however the subway and tramway are not too bad and are a quick option for crossing the city. They are certainly a better option than driving your car -- the fearlessness of the inhabitants can be intimidating, especially on the bewildering,narrow streets in the tangled heart of the city.

The best cuisine in Marseilles is predictably seafood based. The ‘moules-frites’ (mussels and fries) are simple and inexpensive, but definitely a highlight! For around 10 euros, you can pick up a feast from one of the outdoor stalls. Eat them sitting on the harbour, overlooking the French Mediterranean. Also not to be missed is the ‘Pastis’ - a popular alcoholic drink in the region, which is made from aniseed and spices.


Where to stay

For a holiday we would probably not recommend Marseilles as the most tranquil destination! Rather, we suggest it as a day-trip from a home base somewhere close by. For example, you could stay at VU025A Maison Kad, which is located in the hills of the Luberon, in a lovely town called Goult. It is about an hour and a half drive from Marseilles - but a whole world away in temperament!

Only 200m from the village of Goult, Maison Kad is a charming Provençal style house. With its own private garden and pool with Roman steps. It has been beautifully restored and tastefully decorated with a lovely blend of traditional charm and modern comforts. Features include a stone fire place and terracotta tiles, a Moroccan shower room, a south-east facing covered solarium, balcony and shady terrace.


Contributions by Katarina Byrne

PERPIGNAN The French Catalan Capital

Nestled right down in the bottom corner of the country, Perpignan is something a a hybrid. Though it is now officially part of France, this area has been bandied around between powers for centuries - sometimes finding itself a French city, and at other times part of Spanish domains. It also acted as a place of refuge for Spanish refugees fleeing the Civil War in the 1930's, which has strengthened the town's links with Spanish culture even further. It is not a surprise that when visiting this town today, both Spanish and French cultures are strongly represented.

Today, Catalonia is a region in north-eastern Spain which borders France, of which the capital is the vibrant city of Barcelona. It is an autonomous community within Spain, with its own government - a result of the independence of the Catalonian people. For 40 years during the mid 20th century, Catalan culture was suppressed. But it has enjoyed a gradual renaissance since the 1980's. This sense of pride in the Catalan culture can also be seen in Perpignan, where the street signs are written both in French and Catalan. And in 2008, Perpignan became the Capital of Catalan Culture in France.

Festivals

Perpignan is also known as the "City of Festivals". It is famous for its full calendar of events and festivals - with Summer being especially busy.

Le Festival d'Ete de Perpignan aka "Estivales" is held during July. It was created in 1987 to showcase Mediterranean culture and features an eclectic program of dance, music, street theatre and film.

Another popular festival is a free 3 day festival called Guitares au Palais which occurs every August. The festival has a broad main stream focus with pop related music as well as traditional acoustic guitar music and alternative music

Then for two weeks in late august / early September, the international festival of photo journalism festival "visa pour l'image" takes place. It features the greatest photo-journalistic work from around the world in exhibitions across the city, as well as film screenings, symposiums and conferences. It's a wonderful experience for those who have a passion for photography. For more details, see: http://www.visapourlimage.com/index.do

And during the summer, make sure you experience "Les Jeudis de Perpignan". Every Thursday the whole city centre is animated with free music in cafes and squares throughout the old town. It's great for all ages!

Food
Perpignan and the surrounding area is a great destination for food-lovers. (And who doesn't love food?!) Due to the rich alluvial soil, abundant sunshine and water, crops flourish in this area.

The city's main marketplace is on Place Cassanyes. This area was once home to the Jewish quarter, and now the population has shifted to Gypsy and North African families. It feels much more like Algiers than the streets of southern France. The Cassanyes market is open every day until about 1 pm. There isn't much you can't find here and it's especially good on the weekend. Specialties include local sausages, olives, spices, snails, cheese, bread and locally grown fruit and vegetables.

On the Rue Fabriques-Nadal, you can find a fantastic restaurant by the name of Cafe Sansa. Once the haunt of the artist Dali, it now drips in nostalgia with its bullfighting posters and maritime memorabilia. It's full of atmosphere and very popular with the locals.


Perpignan is a lovely city -- a meeting place of cultures different cultures with a vibrant atmosphere. The Catalan artist, Salvador Dali, one even went so far as to declare the city's railway station the centre of the universe, as he apparently got all his best ideas sitting there in the waiting room. This might be a bit of an exaggeration, but we certainly think it is a charming city!


Where to stay?
AU016A Villa Peyriac-du-Mer

This lovely stone 200 year old 'Bergerie' is perched up on the hillside above the small picturesque town of Peyriac-de-Mer and has stunning views over the salt water lagoons and the Mediterranean sea, vineyards and hills. It is set in approximately 2 hectares of land with a well kept garden area around the pool with fig trees, olive trees, a few palms and plumbago. It stands by itself and has no immediate neighbours.

The house is only 3kms from Peyriac-de-Mer so it is possible to walk or cycle to town and get to the small beach, which is just out of town. It is within minutes drive of the salt water lagoons, where live flocks of pink flamingos, or any of the other beaches around Narbonne. The house has been beautifully restored retaining many of the original features like beams, a winding 'Provencal' staircase and an 'old style' ceiling in the living room. There is an independent 'Studio' with a separate entrance looking out on to the pool.

The pool has a covered summer kitchen with a bar, nice garden furniture, a large built-in BBQ, a pergola and a tiled terrace around the pool.

At 62 kilometres from Perpignan, it is an easy drive to visit the city for a day.



Contributions by Katarina Byrne

NARBONNE - c'est bon!

Narbonne first bloomed when the Romans made it the Capital of their first colony outside of Italy. It remained a vital port throughout the Middle Ages until the harbour silted up in the 14th century. Narbonne then fell out of prosperity until the 19th century, when the wine industry helped get the city back on its feet.

One of the main attractions in Narbonne is the cathedral, which looms over the city with its gargantuan size. When the town was first drawing up the plans for the cathedral, it was actually planned to be even bigger! However if it had been built according to plan, it would have meant destroying parts of the city walls, so it's probably a good thing they decided on building a more modest version. There are sweeping views from the cathedral of the surrounding vineyards from the towers - although at 194 feet tall it is a little bit of effort to haul yourself to the top..!

Narbonne is famous for its fantastic markets. There are markets for food, second-hand clothing, crafts, organic produce and flowers. The food markets on Thursday and Sunday morning are particularly popular: you will find more than 300 shops settled alongside both sides of the Robine Canal, on the Promenade des Barques and the Cours Mirabeau. Nearby, you will find the Baltard Pavillion, which celebrated its centenary in 2000. It houses the 'Halles Centrales' which is one of the best food halls in France. Food lovers will be ecstatic with the choice of incredibly fresh gourmet food from more than 70 shops.

If you love a glass of wine, Narbonne is great base for exploring the nearby Minervois wine region. Vine were first introduced here by Roman legionaries. The wines in this region are mostly reds. They are a full-bodied wine and are good even when quite young.

Narbonne also has a good beach. It is a large, spacious beach and very lively. In summer, it's large enough that you can escape the crowds and have your own space. There's also quite a lot for kids - with trampolines and swings and merry-go-rounds.

Villas near Narbonne
We have some delightful villas near Narbonne.

AU023A Maison Henri and it's sister property Nadine AU022A Maison Nadine. 

These properties are perfectly placed for exploring Narbonne and the surrounding area.

If you have any enquiries or would like to make a booking, please don't hesitate to contact us.

Contributions by Katarina Byrne

Happy New Year!

New Years Eve in France is called Saint-Sylvestre. This name actually has nothing to do with the New Year - it is just the feast day named after a Pope from the 4th Century, which coincidentally is also on 31 December!

Traditionally, New Years Eve is celebrated with a feast around midnight - usually beginning late in the evening and continuing into the early hours of the morning. It is called Le réveillon de la Saint-Sylvestre, which can be translated as ‘the awakening of Saint-Sylvestre’, or ‘the awakening of the New Year’. The feasts includes celebratory foods, such as Champange and foie gras, as well as brioche, pancakes, oysters, chicken, eggs, wine, chocolate, sweets and candied fruit.

Although New Year’s Eve is generally celebrated as a private affair at home, it is also popular to celebrate with balls and parties (“une soirée dansante”). Southwestern France also has its own particular tradition, where locals attend an evening Mass the evening of Saint-Sylvestre. They then march by a torchlight procession into the vineyards, where they celebrate with ‘vin chaud’ (mulled wine) to bring in the New Year.
New Year’s Eve is typically fairly formal in France, and even at family celebrations at home, everyone tends to dress up. So if you want to fit in, make sure you wear something classy!

New Year’s day in France is better known as Jour des Étrennes and it is one of the oldest festivals celebrated in France. New Year’s day in France is typically spent eating with family and friends, with a good deal of wine generally adding to the festive spirit! The French also give gifts on New Years day, and whilst it is seen as a pleasure, it is also taken somewhat seriously. Traditionally, it is considered good luck to give presents at the beginning of the year - much more so than at any other time of the year.
The New Year is not just celebrated on January 1, but actually continues for several days. The New Year holidays in France ends on January 6 with the ceremonial cutting of a special type of festive cake called la galette des rois. A small figurine, “la fève”, is hidden in the cake and the person who finds the trinket in their slice becomes king for the day. Originally, “la fève” was literally a broad bean (fève), but they were replaced from the 1870s by a variety of figurines. A paper crown is included with the cake to crown the "king" who finds the fève in their piece of cake. Traditionally, the cake was divided into as many pieces as there were people, plus one extra slice. This extra slice was called the "share of the poor" was intended to be given out of charity to a poor person. The French President is not allowed to “draw the kings” on Epiphany, as it is bad etiquette. Therefore, at the Elysée Palace, the traditional galette without figurine and crown is served to the President.
On the original calender, the New Year began on March 25. This explains the tradition on the “Poisson d’Avril” (April Fish). It is similar to ‘April Fools’, where people play tricks on each other on the 1st of April. In France, people sent fake gifts around the time of the New Year’s feast. When the reformed calender of 1582 was put into place, the ‘Poisson d’Avril’ tradition moved to January, along with the other New Year celebrations. Today, it is still popular to send fake gifts, chocolate fish and funny cards with pictures of fish.

OUVEILLAN - Festival of the Harvest

Ouveillan's 'Fetes des Vendanges' (Festival of the Harvest) is a festival of Wine and Craft. This old tradition continues every October and is one of the highlights of the Languedoc calendar, with its many parades, festivities and markets. These markets range from amateur car boot sales, to flea markets, to professional craftsmen and women offering their hand-crafted wares, folklore and music. The festival has a lovely atmosphere of the old and the new, with old traditions continuing strongly, whilst still welcoming new innovations and skills.

Locals dressing up for a parade

The festival's history is rooted in the traditional festivities of the end-of-harvest season. The end of the harvest was often a busy time, with field workers often working frantically and long hours to get the crop in for the year. Exhausted by their efforts, the workers would celebrate the close of the season, with festivities which evolved into the present-day Fetes des Venanges. The mood was not simply relief that a busy time had now passed, but also to thank each other for the hard work that had been put in, to celebrate the success of the crop and to farewell the end of the agricultural year. A large part of their festivities was to put on a big feast of cassoulet, poultry, mutton and plenty of wine. The atmosphere was boisterous and everyone sang loud drinking songs, accompanied by the rhythmic banging of tables and stamping of feet. Today, the festival has grown to encompass more than a big dinner - but the cheerful spirit is still very much a part of the Fetes des Vendanges.

Yum, Cassoulet!

Wine Barrel at the festival

Ouveillan is a short distance from Narbonne and Beziers. This charming town began as a 'retirement village' for romans looking to spend their final days pottering around the garden, tending grape vines and drinking good wine. The town may have become a little more lively since then, with people of all ages now inhabiting the town - however the focus on wine hasn't changed. In this town of one butcher, a couple of bakeries and food stores, two doctors and dentist - we also find several wineries. Keeping the villagers thirst at bay seems to be much more of a priority than looking after their teeth! Even if you miss the festival, Ouveillan is still worth a visit - it has markets several times a week, roman ruins and - as mentioned above - several wineries!

For Beautiful Villas in the Languedoc visit our website www.southfrancevillas.com
Contributions by Katarina Byrne

UZES - Throughout the ages

Uzes has a history of being a tolerant and open community. In the Middle Ages, civilised Uzes was a stark contrast to Northern France, which was ruled by the Franks. In the Christian World during the Middle Ages, Jews generally lived outside the feudal system and their rights were very limited. Although the Languedoc wasn’t a Utopia, it was much more tolerant towards the Jewish population than other areas in Europe. For example, at Easter, there was a popular christian tradition called “Strike the Jew”, however this was outlawed in the Languedoc. Jews began to settle in Uzes from the 5th century and the bishop of Uzes invited them to dinners and became friends with many Jewish people. Although he did dedicate quite a bit of energy to convincing Jews in Uzes to convert to Christianity, it was not an aggressive pursuit. Unfortunately, his friendliness was noticed and reported to King Childebert I, who was not quite as tolerant. The Bishop was ordered to compel the Jews in his community to convert - and if they refused, they were to be expelled from the town altogether. After his death, many Jews that had been baptised decided to return to Judaism.

By the 13th century, Uzes became known for its community of wise Jewish scholars, and also housed a community of Cathars, a gnostic religious sect. It also was known for being one of the largest Protestant cities in France - a somewhat dangerous position in a strongly catholic country. During the religious wars of the Reformation in the 16th century, the city suffered for its religious stance, and all its churches were destroyed. So Uzes has had a history of open-mindedness, generally making its own decisions and not simply following popular trend.

Uzes also happens to be the first Duchy of France. That is, the Dukes of Uzes are the most important Dukes in the country, and rank after the the title of Prince. (In other words, the Duke of Uzès would theoretically be first in line for the French throne after the royal family itself. That is, if France was still a kingdom!) In the past, it was part of the job of the Duke of Uzès to defend the honour of the Queen Mother. Over the centuries, the dukes of Uzes have well and truly proved their loyalty, with twenty-one dukes having been wounded or killed in the name of their country.

When the French Revolution came, the Ducal family went into exile - being close to the Royal family, they weren’t too popular during this time. However, the family got some of their property back under the Restoration and the family still owns the colourful chateau in the middle of the town -- this chateau has remained the residence of the family for over a thousand years.Uzes really came into its own in the 16th century, when it established itself as a major player in the textile industry. The town produced silk, stockings and woollen cloth with over 2,000 people being employed in textile factories in Uzes. The affluence of the town suffered with the introduction of the railway, however - suddenly the town had to compete with far away markets, which had a more competitive edge and sold their goods more cheaply. Uzes couldn’t compete against this new influx of goods, and so business began to decline. With money suddenly not being so abundant, fewer houses were built, so the effect is that Uzes is frozen in time, with more of the Medieval architecture having been preserved. When the town became more prosperous around the 19th century, building boomed again - so we have this architectural contrast in Uzes, between the older medieval styles and the newer, grandiose 19th century styles.

Uzes also hosts the biggest Truffle market in the Languedoc. (For more about Truffles, please see this previous blog entry.) It’s a good town for shopping and food, with some great markets and boutique stores.For more information and other beautiful luxury viilas, please visit our website!
Contributions by Katarina Byrne

Truffle hunting!

Truffles are expensive, exclusive, elusive and delicious -- and the French LOVE them for these reasons.

Going to a truffle market is not only an interesting glimpse into french culture, it also gives you the chance to buy truffles straight from the forest and take them home to cook up a gourmet meal in your holiday apartment or villa. It will bring everyone into the kitchen the moment you start slicing it, releasing its wonderful pungent odour. You don't need to be intimidated at the idea of cooking this delicacy - try a truffle omelette, mix slices through a fettucine dish, or simply eat raw, sliced thinly on buttered bread. Having a kitchen to come home to while on holidays is a fantastic way to travel. You really get into the culture so much more thoroughly if you take advantage of the local produce and recipes during your holiday.



Richerenches is the largest truffle market in the country. Most of the truffle selling doesn't go on in the main street, however - you will need to explore the streets of the town a little to stumble upon the major selling areas. There is something a little covert about truffles which the french delight in - it is a cash-only trade, and while it is not illegal, there can be an air of the illicit in these exchanges.



Known as the 'diamond of the kitchen', truffles are very expensive and considered a luxury item. They have a strong, pungent flavour and are usually used sparingly, in paper-thin slices. Older French books often use great quantities of truffles in recipes, as harvests were much larger in the past. In the 19th century, an annual harvest averaged at around 1000 tonnes, while today's production is around 40 tonnes. This is due to climate change and many truffle oaks being destroyed during the World Wars. Their rarity has lead to high prices, with this fungus now fetching a price of around 800 euros per kilo.



Growing truffles is a huge investment of time. In the wild, it takes an Oak tree 40 years to get to the point where it has the potential to grow truffles. However, with special techniques, it is now possible these days to manipulate young oak trees into truffle-maturity in only 10 years. The cultivation of this fungus is so precarious, however, that a slightly dry winter can wreak havoc on a crop. Few farmers are willing to put all their energy into truffle farming alone - it's too risky.

To add another complication to the mix, farmers also have to ward off thieves. Truffle poachers have become an enormous hazard for truffle farms. Poachers with specially trained dogs can steal thousands of euros worth of the fungus in a night. Farmers must go to great lengths to protect their orchards, with hired guards and dogs being the norm.

If you're not game to try cooking them yourself, truffles can be found on the menus of high class restaurants. One such restaurant is the 'Mas de Saint Antoine', which is located in Grasse. This restaurant not only uses truffles in its dishes, but also hosts an annual truffle market of its own.



Truffle season runs through winter, from November to March.
One of the main truffle regions in France is Provence, and the main market towns in Provence are Apt, Aups, Carpentras, Richerence, and Valréas. In the the Languedoc, Uzes hosts the principal truffle market.


Where to stay?

We're huge fans of a great little town called Carpentras - it is quite close to all the major Truffle markets so it is perfect as a home-base for truffle hunting excursions! We can recommend a beautiful villa called VU003a Parc de la Masque. This spacious villa is set within 3 acres of woodland, with Mediterranean pines, olive trees and oaks offering privacy and calm to be disturbed only by cicadas. There's plenty of fun to be had as it boasts great facilities - including a fenced swimming pool, private tennis court, library, piano, petanque/boules, board games, and more. It also features a fully-equipped kitchen which is essential for cooking those fresh truffles you'll score at the markets! The villa accommodations 10-11 people, with plenty of room for everyone.


For more information, click here! Or if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact us via our website www.southfrancevillas.com

Happy Truffle hunting!

Contributions by Katarina Byrne